There are so many anti-aging creams on the market that it is extremely difficult to discern which ones are worth buying and which ones are not. We hear about ingredients such as retinol, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C… without really knowing which ones are most effective and which ones are less so. Which cream should I buy? How should I use it? Will it really do anything for me?
Before looking at how to prevent or improve skin aging, it is important to understand how it occurs.
On the one hand, the skin undergoes an intrinsic aging process, which is due to the passage of time, whereby the skin becomes drier as the production of skin lipids decreases. In addition, the connection between the dermis and the epidermis flattens, making the skin’s surface more fragile.
On the other hand, most of the changes in our skin are the result of extrinsic aging, which is conditioned by external factors, the most important being sun exposure through ultraviolet (UV), infrared, and visible light radiation. Other factors that play a role in the aging process include pollution, smoking, lack of sleep, an unbalanced diet, and heat. All of these external elements that influence our skin on a daily basis are collectively referred to as the exposome.
Many of these factors, given that they generate significant oxidative stress in the dermis, increase the activity of MMPs (matrix metalloproteinases), enzymes that break down collagen, leading to a reduced support capacity of the dermis, which makes the skin’s surface appear more wrinkled.
There are two different types of skin aging (atrophic and hypertrophic), which I discuss in another article on this blog.
Now that we have touched on how and why our skin ages, let’s move on to what we should look for in an anti-aging cosmetic product. At this point, it seems sensible to emphasize that any of the active ingredients discussed below will be meaningless if their application is not accompanied by sunscreen. Knowing that the sun is the main cause of aging, any cosmetic routine must be accompanied by sunscreen, ideally on both sunny and cloudy days.
To review the most effective active ingredients in this field, in addition to my own professional experience, I will draw on a recently published article in the British Journal of Dermatology, which provides a good overview of the ingredients with the most scientific evidence currently available.
Retinoids
The retinoid family includes retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives: retinoic acid, retinaldehyde, and esters. Retinoic acid (also called tretinoin) is the most scientifically studied and has robust evidence regarding its ability to improve fine wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and texture. It is the most potent retinoid used at concentrations between 0.01% and 0.1%, with 0.025% and 0.05% being the most commonly used.
In addition, retinoic acid has been shown to have a positive effect on regulating the balance between collagen degradation and synthesis in the dermis. It does this by activating fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen production. Furthermore, MMP activity is reduced.
For all these reasons, we consider retinoids to be the star anti-aging molecules.
Antioxidants
Antioxidants are beneficial both orally (especially when consumed through a healthy diet rich in fruits and vegetables) and topically.
Niacinamide, in addition to its antioxidant effect, can help with barrier function, reduce pigmentation, and control skin sebum production. In any case, its potency is lower than that of retinoids.
Vitamin C also has beneficial effects on skin aging. It has been shown to increase collagen expression and reduce skin pigmentation.
Peptides
Peptides are short chains that group together certain amino acids. Some of these molecules (such as PKEK) applied topically can reach the dermis and stimulate collagen synthesis. Others (Argireline) appear to be able to slightly reduce the depth of certain wrinkles by having a neuromodulatory effect, causing the superficial muscle fibers to contract with slightly less force.
In conclusion…
Skin aging is inevitable. However, we can adopt certain measures in our daily routine, while always maintaining realistic expectations, to help us keep our skin healthy and youthful-looking. Choosing products that provide adequate sun protection, hydration, barrier function restoration, and a certain stimulus for collagen synthesis will help us as we age.
If you are unsure about which anti-aging product to choose, ask your dermatologist (either online or in person) for advice on the most appropriate products for your particular situation.
