Surely in the last few days you have read and heard about the new retinol regulation. Since summer 2023 we already heard the idea that the European Union wanted to adjust the limits of its concentration in cosmetics. It was not until April 4 that the resolution was finally published.
As you may know, retinol is one of the most scientifically proven anti-aging active ingredients. In recent years it has gained much popularity and its use has spread considerably. Products with concentrations of 0.2% to 1.5% are currently available.
High concentrations of this molecule (which in the skin is transformed into retinoic acid, the really active and most effective molecule) can cause irritation, redness and flaking in the first applications. Also, if the use is not adequate and is done without control, it can lead to an irritative dermatitis that may require medical treatment in some cases. However, to my surprise, the new retinol regulation does not claim these arguments for the reduction of the maximum allowed concentration, as you will read below.
Is retinol banned in cosmetics?
Contrary to some rumors, retinol will not be banned. It has simply been regulated differently so that retinol, retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate will be included in cosmetics at lower concentrations than hitherto.
- Body lotions may not contain more than 0.05% concentration.
- Facial products may not contain more than 0.3%.
It appears that the regulation does not affect retinal (a molecule related to retinol, also a precursor of retinoic acid).
Why has the new retinol regulation been implemented?
Retinol, chemically speaking, is vitamin A. Apparently, it has been found that up to 5% of the population includes in their diet more vitamin A than the maximum recommended daily amount. This occurs both as a result of food and food supplements (those containing carotenes). The EU is considering that the cosmetic supply of retinol could increase the possible (and very remote!!!) toxicity of vitamin A in that percentage of the population.
For this reason, a warning should be included on packaging to inform consumers already exposed to vitamin A in foods and food supplements of the possibility of overexposure from the use of such compounds.
Does the new retinol regulation affect retinoic acid?
Retinoic acid is considered a drug, so this measure would not affect it.
When does the new retinol regulation come into force?
As of February 1, 2025, no more products with concentrations above those permitted may be launched on the market, and as of November 1 of the same year, they may not be marketed.
Is it dangerous to continue using the product I have?
No. You can use it. Given the new recommendation, make sure that you do not take more vitamin A than is desirable because you abuse vitamin supplements. However, the absorption of cosmetics into the blood is very low and it is unlikely that using a cream with retinol at more than 0.3% concentration will cause you any real health problems.
What do you think of the new regulation of retinol in cosmetics?
